An unexpected evening is like a surprise gift wrapped in the ordinary. It starts with a hint of the mundane – a simple plan or routine – only to unfold into something memorable and unanticipated: an impromptu adventure or an encounter that defies expectations. Earlier this month, I ventured out for what I thought would be a routine friends and family restaurant launch. But Rokusho, the newest culinary sensation to hit Los Angeles, was anything but ordinary. Celebrated in Tokyo for their Michelin-starred restaurants and innovative approach to Japanese cuisine, Chef Hisashi Udatsu and Naotaka Ohashi offer a menu featuring beloved classics alongside inventive new dishes tailored to the tastes of Angelenos. Little did I know the sensorial excitement that awaited me.
The interior boasts raw concrete walls, bold geometric shapes, and a stark industrial palette, creating a dramatic backdrop that highlights the refined artistry of the cuisine itself. \\\ Photo: Gry Space
Arriving fashionably late – though, in true LA style, no one seemed to notice – I was stunned by the transformation of the legendary Sunset Sound recording studio. This historic space, once the birthplace of The Beach Boys’ Pet Sounds and The Rolling Stones’ Exile on Main St., had been reinvented as a sleek, modern restaurant that evokes the spirit of Japanese hospitality and craftsmanship.
Photo: Gry Space
Escorted up a muted gray stairwell, I emerged onto a seemingly nondescript terrace just in time to witness the sunset sky, sprinkled with palm trees and the distant Hollywood sign. After finding my date, who had arrived on time and was chatting away, the unusually humid evening prompted me to head straight to the bar for a cocktail.
Midorita: Mal Bien Espadin, Midori, lime, ichimi, salt \\\ Dynamic Botanical Sculpture by LA based artist Alejandro Bataille \\\ Photo: TJ Girard
While the crowd felt laid-back and typically Californian, the bartenders did not. The talented crew from Tokyo crafted my intoxicatingly neon green Midorita cocktail with precision. Next to me at the bar was Freddy Braidi from Boulevard Hospitality Group (BHG), who, along with Three Star Lane (3SL), played a pivotal role in bringing Rokusho’s unique blend of elevated casual dining and modern design from Tokyo to LA. Freddy also shared that he’s busy working on the iconic Yamashiro, soon to grace the San Pedro waterfront.
King Crab Hand Roll, Namero Hand Roll, Ami Ebi Hand Roll \\\ Photo: Gry Space
Eventually, I caught up with my date, who was amusingly engrossed in conversation with Gry Space’s Jen Whitaker and Emi Kitawaki – the talented duo behind the soft brutalist design of Rokusho and Udatsu, the 8-seat omakase opening upstairs later this month. In chatting with them, they revealed their deep commitment to their craft. The understated charm of their approach to design, from brand to space, is a testament to how unexpected details can elevate an experience. Whitaker reflected on the journey: “After working on the space for the past few years and feeling life and vibrancy throughout it tonight, it all feels very surreal.”
Handmade washi paper menu cover by PAPER BRUT \\\ Japanese recycled glass, cedar bark and resin plate-ware by ARAS \\\ Photo: TJ Girard
Sharing this surreal moment with them, while hearing about their wins, compromises, and the fantastic team of artisans they’ve gathered, made for a more authentic and engaging cocktail hour than your typical idle chit-chat. We loved hearing about architect Ryan Turner of studioimpel, their passion for uneven wall texture, letting go of perfectionism, and renovating their first personal space close to Kitawaki’s family in Japan.
Whole Sushi Cake \\\ Classic with tuna, kohada (gizzard shad), roe, sea urchin, sea bream, and scallops. \\\ Photo: Gry Space
Passed version of the Sushi Cake Classic \\\ Tuna, kohada, ikura, sea urchin, sea bream, scallop, eel, sushi, rice \\\ Photo: TJ Girard
Whitaker and Kitawaki admire how brutalist design celebrates imperfections and finds charm in raw, unfinished surfaces. The natural aging of the materials they chose will allow the space to evolve and reveal its wear and patina over time. This approach infuses character and authenticity into a space that had seemingly lost its identity when gutted of the past.
Salmon and ricotta salad with mizuna, pink pepper, and dill. The fish melts in your mouth as the taste of oyster vinaigrette pushes greens to become the star of the dish. \\\ Photo: TJ Girard
Gry Space’s design was softened by incorporating natural elements to warm the atmosphere. Sprinkled throughout are Alejandro Bataille’s suspended botanical sculptures, Cedric Etienne’s textured block cork stools, table vases by Kinto, and the organic texture of the handmade washi paper menus. Each of these organic elements contributes to celebrating the beauty of texture and imperfection.
Wagyu Carpaccio \\\ Shiso flowers, grade 5 Wagyu, dill, olives, red and yellow pepper \\\ Photo: Gry Space
And then there was the dinner. The muted palette of the space eliminates distractions and the concrete tube pin spots bring the food into focus. The sensorial plating felt intentional, showcasing fragrant ingredients, layered textures, and colorful composition. Each dish demonstrated a level of detail, cleanliness, and flavor far superior to your average LA eatery. Driven by the Kaizen philosophy, Executive Chef Carlos Couts – formerly of Sushi by Scratch – has extensive experience in Japanese and Nikkei cuisine. His passion for decadently fresh, farm-to-table ingredients and high-quality seafood and meats shines through in every bite. His dynamic menu offers a delightful mix of Rokusho’s signature items from Tokyo and new creations tailored to Angeleno tastes. Standout dishes include their classic Wagyu Aburi and newcomer Toro-Taku Avocado Garden.
Toro-Taku Avocado Garden \\\ Toro, takuan, avocado, nori, sesame, tomato powder, edible flowers \\\ Revealing hidden ingredients when spooned out onto individualized toasted nori sheets. \\\ Photo: TJ Girard
Beverage Director Felix Campos, known for his work with Enrique Olvera’s restaurant group, came by to chat with us about the vintage tequilas, noteworthy sakes, and funky natural wines on the menu. Each drink is curated to enhance the flavors of Chef Couts’ culinary delights, elevating every aspect of the dining experience. Even Felix’s off-menu grapefruit shot, served in a frosted glass, showcased the versatility and creativity of Rokusho’s mixology. These personal touches, continuously added by the knowledgeable and attentive staff, made the service exceed our expectations and turned our evening into anything but ordinary.
Puffed nori with uni and coriander flower \\\ Photo: TJ Girard
What began as a simple outing transformed into an evening filled with remarkable sights, flavors, and encounters. Rokusho’s LA debut promises to be a transformative addition to the city’s dining scene, combining authentic Japanese flavors with innovative culinary artistry. With its striking design, thoughtfully crafted menu, and expertly curated beverage program, Rokusho is set to offer an unforgettable experience that will undoubtedly become a new favorite in Los Angeles.
Rokusho is located at 6634 Sunset Blvd in Los Angeles, California.
