Milan menâs fashion week is where all the big Italian names converge. Itâs where Prada dictates what trouser shape everyone will one day be wearing and where Gucci drops the next it-bag. But as the shows got under way at the weekend an unexpected new trend was emerging: the great fashion Brexit.
Just four months after making his debut as creative director of Dunhill at London fashion week, Simon Holloway instead chose the Italian capital for the brandâs Spring/Summer 2025 show. On Sunday he aimed to recreate âthe sense of a beautiful spring day in Englandâ by showing in a garden in Milan.
Martine Rose, the cult London designer whose clothing riffs on traditional codes of masculinity such as football and club culture, and is loved by celebrities including Kendrick Lamar, has also defected this time. Showing directly after Prada on Sunday, Rose took a prime spot on the schedule, which has more than 80 events and runs until 18 June.
David Koma has been showing womenswear in London since 2009 â his glamorous designs have been worn by Rihanna and Beyoncé â but for his menswear debut he decamped to Milan, while this month Paul Smith headed to Florence as a guest designer at Pitti Uomo.
Gianluca Borghi, chief executive of 10 Corso Como, a luxury concept store in Milan, says the Italian cityâs fashion week is gaining more power. Borghi says different fashion cities dominate at different times, but âMilan offers a rather peculiar and almost unique scenario, thanks to the combination of a preferred location for both the creative world and its business counterpart.â
The exodus of British talent is a blow for the fashion scene in London already hit by Brexit, the abolition of tax-free shopping for tourists and the cost of living crisis.
Rose has spoken about feeling âvery disheartened and sad about the landscape of London fashion, really demoralisedâ. Half of her team is now based in Milan. Holloway says that while London is âthe epicentre of creativityâ, commercially it makes sense to focus on Milan.
It is a marked contrast to the 2010s, when Rose showed in London alongside a host of pioneering designers. Victoria Beckham, once a key London draw, moved her show to Paris in 2022 and since then Grace Wales Bonner and Bianca Saunders have followed suit.
While Paris has earned its moniker as the fashion capital of Europe, more recently it is Milan â once regarded as a slightly dull and industrial city â that has creatives flocking to it.
Brexit has played a key role in increasing its allure. A generous tax incentive introduced in 2015 to entice Italians back to their homeland â and later expanded to include foreigners â has also proved fruitful. And you can add to the mix the countryâs recent introduction of a digital nomad visa, which allows non-EU nationals earning more than â¬28,000 (£24,000) to relocate and work remotely, and the fact that fashion is taken seriously as an industry.
Lisa Bridgett, a fashion tech entrepreneur who recently relocated to Milan after stints in London and Paris, describes fashion as âthe lifeblood of the cityâ.
âHere, la bella figura, which means to put your best face forward, is a way of life,â she says, explaining how typical it is to hear ânot just fashion peopleâ discussing the length of a shirt sleeve or type of collar.
Koma says the cityâs reverence for fashion was a key factor in his decision to make his menswear debut in Milan. âI wanted to bring in new voices and a fresh audience,â he says. âThe men really do love fashion here so I think it will be more interesting to get their reaction.â
Olya Kuryshchuk, the founder and editor-in-chief of 1 Granary, a fashion education platform and creative network, believes that the logistical challenges, including higher venue costs, posed by the upcoming Olympic Games in Paris is also benefiting Milan.
But she is doubtful that the city can steal Parisâs crown. âWith London rapidly loosing its advantages primarily due to Brexit, Paris will stay the most important hub for independent brands as that is where the majority of the buying is happening,â she says.
While Hollowayâs commercial and sales teams have recently relocated to Milan, he is keen to keep as much of Dunhillâs manufacturing in the UK as possible. More than 60 percent of its fabrics are woven in the UK and he says working with heritage mills and specialists in Scotland and the north-west of England is âcore to the brandâs identityâ.
âWe exist in a marketplace that is dominated by Italian menswear,â he says. âWe are able to offer something rarefied. The hand of Scottish knitwear is very different to what they do in Italy. So using British manufacturers is of paramount importance to us.â
By Chloe Mac Donnell
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